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Matsutake

Posted by on May 21, 2008

Folks regularly ask us what we eat. The easy answer is whatever we are hungry for. I am prone to fixing whatever is in season and looks best at the numerous food shops we have in our neighborhood. Within a short walking distance of our home we have three butcher shops, five fish mongers, another shop that specializes in fresh shell fish and eel, two fresh fruit and vegetable shops, three bakeries and a handful of specialty shops that sell anything from hot, straight from the wok tempura to freshly made konnyaku.

We had a small dinner party last night. Our company was two very good Japanese friends who have been here and eaten here countless times. And as always, I ask our friends what they would like me to fix them when they come over. The request this time was: fish and something Japanese.

I asked. They said. I prepared.

I have to say I was a bit taken back by their initial response. I poured the wine and brought everything out. The first comment wasn’t “Oh that looks delicious” or “This looks great.” The first comment was, “Wow, this is a really traditional Japanese meal.” Let’s see: we live in Japan and you requested something traditional.

You asked for it. And I delivered!

Autumn means that it is matsutake season. Matsutake are mushrooms that grow wild under pine trees and have a wonderful woodsy taste and are lightly aromatic with hints of cinnamon bark. Matsutake are considered to be a Japanese delicacy. Giving them as a gift is considered to be a sign of great respect. These seemed a perfect compliment to the white fish (tara) in a butter and wine sauce that I prepared. Our first course thought was matsutake dobin mushi, a traditional clear broth (fish stock based) soup that uses the matsutake mushrooms. The fish was served with a potato and mushroom (other varieties) gratin, with a hint of garlic and a velvety sauce. The gratin was topped with the remaining halved and grilled matsutake arranged to resemble a little wood scene. Matsutake are accompanied by small (Key Lime size) Japanese limes. These were served as a garnish and the light hint of tartness on the smoky woodsy matsutake really complete the taste sensation.

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